Despite inconsistent information, one thing was clear. It was best to spend the night in Chiang Khong and get a tuk-tuk or taxi to border control in the morning. The town itself has a few nice, cheap rooms, and like much of Thailand boasts an excellent selection of well-priced restaurants scattered throughout. It’s not exactly a tourism hotspot, though, and I spent the evening repacking my bag and going over my game-plan for the next morning.

The key to a smooth, slow boat journey (metaphorically, anyway) is an early start. Although it doesn’t take long for the day to heat up in this part of the world, this might be one of the few times you’re chilly in Thailand, as the combination of the young morning, whipping river wind, and a tuk-tuk ride can be bracing – so don’t pack your jacket in your bag!