Flavors of Innovation: Inside Horváth Berlin’s Michelin-Star Magic
Arrival
As I arrived at Horváth on a crisp Berlin evening, I could already sense the magic of this two-Michelin-starred gem nestled along Paul-Lincke-Ufer. Located in the heart of Kreuzberg, an area brimming with eclectic cafés, shops, and restaurants, Horváth feels like a beacon of creativity in this lively neighbourhood. The location, steeped in history and cultural significance, immediately set the stage for what was to come. The restaurant’s exterior was understated yet inviting, with soft lighting casting a welcoming glow on the warm wood panelling.
The moment I stepped inside, the lively hum of conversation and clinking glasses enveloped me, blending with the unmistakable aromas drifting from the open kitchen. The décor, a seamless blend of traditional and contemporary elements, drew me in. A few moments after entering, I was greeted by a friendly staff member who guided me through the cosy yet chic space. I was fortunate enough to dine outside in the garden that evening, surrounded by vines that draped over the courtyard, adding an element of serenity to the vibrant Kreuzberg district.
As I sat down, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of ease. The ambiance here doesn’t scream for attention—it simply invites you to sit back, relax, and enjoy the experience unfolding before you. And what an experience it promised to be. The service was impeccable, with each staff member exuding warmth and hospitality, making it clear that at Horváth, every guest is treated with care and respect.
Design & Layout
Horváth’s design is a striking contrast between the warmth of classic elements and the boldness of modern aesthetics. The restaurant’s interior speaks volumes about its history, yet embraces the future with open arms. Upon walking in, the warm wood panelling and dimly lit ambiance immediately remind you of traditional German eateries. But as you move deeper into the space, the vibe shifts, and you encounter a more contemporary atmosphere. The vibrant mural by artist Jim Avignon adds a pop of colour and energy to the otherwise understated interior, reminding you that Horváth is not just a restaurant—it’s a living, breathing piece of art.
One of the most impressive features of the space is the floor-to-ceiling glass-enclosed kitchen. Watching the culinary team work their magic, from the precise knife cuts to the delicate plating, enhanced my dining experience. There’s something mesmerising about seeing the chefs work, and the glass wall provides a perfect view without disrupting the flow of the meal.
For a more intimate experience, the Chef’s Table is a unique offering. It’s positioned so that guests can observe the entire process up close, making it a thrilling choice for those who want to witness the artistry behind the dishes. And during the warmer months, Horváth offers a garden dining area, where guests can enjoy the charm of the outdoor space, surrounded by greenery—a peaceful retreat amid the buzz of Berlin’s cultural district.
Philosophy
The culinary philosophy at Horváth revolves around a concept that is as intriguing as it is revolutionary: emancipated vegetable cuisine. Chef Sebastian Frank, known for his bold approach to cooking, doesn’t just use vegetables as an accompaniment—they are the stars of the plate. This is the essence of Horváth’s cuisine: vegetables and fruits are treated with respect and elevated through powerful seasonings and preparation techniques, allowing their natural aromas and flavours to shine.
What I loved most about this approach is its fluidity and freedom. It’s not about adhering to tradition, but about exploring the potential of ingredients in ways that might not have been considered before. Frank’s menu feels like a journey through the seasons, using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients to create memorable dishes that change throughout the year. His creative use of vegetables in unexpected ways made me see ingredients I thought I knew in an entirely new light. For example, the celeriac dishes were a revelation. The salt-baked and matured celeriac, which had spent 12 months in salt dough, was a standout dish. Frank’s dedication to perfecting this technique—spanning years—is a testament to his commitment to creating food that goes beyond flavour, but also tells a story.
What impressed me was the thoughtfulness that went into every aspect of the menu. Each dish was accompanied by a “business card,” a small card explaining the ingredients, philosophy, and sometimes even the backstory behind its creation. This made each bite feel more meaningful, like I was not just eating a dish, but experiencing a concept—a piece of Sebastian Frank’s culinary identity. This was the essence of Horváth: a place where each dish challenges expectations, while also honouring the craft and creativity that drives it.
Culinary Experience
Dining at Horváth is not just a meal—it’s an exploration. As the evening unfolded, I was treated to a menu that was at once familiar and surprising. The langos and puszta salad was a perfect example of this blend. A Hungarian classic reimagined, it was light and airy, with a tangy sour cream and pickled vegetables that added complexity to the dish. It felt like an introduction to the meal, both comforting and exciting, setting the stage for what was to come.
Next up was the bread and butter, but this was no ordinary pairing. The sourdough was homemade, with a touch of mashed potatoes mixed with roasted potato skin. It’s this combination of the unexpected and the familiar that defines Frank’s cooking. The warmth and richness of the bread, paired with the simplicity of butter, felt like a perfect prelude to the more complex flavours that followed.
The mushroom liver dish was another standout. Made from king oyster mushrooms, this creamy, buttery dish was rich and indulgent, yet light enough to leave you wanting more. It was hard to stop at just one serving—I found myself asking for more, and not just because it was delicious, but because it was a unique experience I couldn’t quite get enough of.
And then there was the Kukuruz—a mushroom dish that showcased the versatility of just one ingredient. Different textures of mushrooms, from steamed to grilled and even dehydrated, were paired with almond oil, creating a dish that was delicate yet complex. The flavours were so subtle, yet so distinct, revealing how Frank treats each ingredient with the utmost respect, allowing it to shine.
The celeriac was the true showstopper of the night. There was something profoundly satisfying about this dish, which featured both fresh and matured celeriac in various forms—salt-baked, steamed, and roasted. The dish was both a sensory delight and a testament to Frank’s philosophy: to elevate ingredients through time and technique.
As the meal progressed, I could sense the thoughtfulness behind every dish. The final course, Pork Blood Toffee, was an unexpected delight, rich with the sweetness of white chocolate and the depth of clarified butter. It was a surprising end to the meal, leaving me with a sense of contentment and wonder. How did Frank manage to turn such humble ingredients into something so extraordinary?
Notable Facts
The story of Sebastian Frank is one of persistence and passion. His culinary journey began in his native Austria, where he trained at Steirereck under the guidance of the esteemed Helmut Reit. But it wasn’t until he moved to Berlin in 2010 and took over at Horváth that his unique style began to take shape. Within a year, he earned his first Michelin star, and by 2015, Horváth had secured two stars, a feat it’s maintained ever since.
Horváth is also steeped in history. The restaurant occupies a space with deep cultural significance, having once been home to Exil, a cultural hub in the 1970s that attracted intellectuals, artists, and musicians, including David Bowie and Iggy Pop. The location’s rich legacy adds to the atmosphere, and you can’t help but feel connected to the creative energy that once filled the space.
The restaurant’s design is a celebration of this heritage. A renovation in 2021 unearthed a vibrant mural by artist Jim Avignon, adding a contemporary twist to the historic wood panelling that defines the space. Horváth, with its mix of old and new, mirrors the journey of its chef, Sebastian Frank, who continues to push the boundaries of what modern cuisine can be.
