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The Bear’s Best Episode Is a Beautiful Mind-Fork

When The Bear Season 2 premiered earlier this summer, it wasn’t immediately clear that the meaning of life was buried in one of its episodes. The release model was a factor in this, with every episode debuting at once, nudging the audience towards bingeing. However, it’s also a wild season in terms of the emotional extremes it hits: There are quiet, delicate stories, but also epic and loud moments that burn a lot of oxygen, all culminating in a dizzying finale.

Now that some time has passed, though, it’s easier to appreciate Episode 7, “Forks,” for the masterpiece it is. Set over the course of a week, it chronicles Richie (Ebon Moss-Bachrach) as he stages at “the best restaurant in the world.” Called Ever, it’s a place where modernist refinement blends with the occasional whimsical touch, and the attention to detail is exacting, from the timing of its courses to the way in which they’re served to even the dang forks on the table.

Sometimes, it’s hard to remember what an episode is about just from the title, but “Forks” is not one of those episodes, as Richie’s first task upon arrival at the crack of dawn is to spend the day polishing forks for service, making sure they are clean and streak-free. This is, by anyone’s standards, an incredibly dull and monotonous task, yet those forks become Richie’s own personal “wax on/wax off” practice. Whether it be painting a fence, taking a kundalini yoga class, or polishing a sensei’s car, repetitive tasks can offer a certain kind of enlightenment; at a certain point in the repetition, you zone out, ascending to some degree to a higher plane.

Of course, Richie has not yet found enlightenment when first set with this task, and he quickly becomes frustrated by it, especially after Garrett (Andrew Lopez), his guide to this strange new world, critiques the presence of streaks. However, Richie’s frustration is not equal to his spite at Carmy (Jeremy Allen White) for making him do this in the first place, and he’s determined to “do his time” and see the week through.

What Richie is there to learn is not food, but service. It’s fundamentally an episode of television about the importance of values that aren’t often celebrated: Ceremony, focus, and respect. The latter quite literally, as Garrett puts it bluntly, “I just need you to respect me, I need you to respect the staff, I need you to respect the diners, and I need you to respect yourself.” And that respect comes in the form of details, in paying attention, in taking that step beyond the required — something Richie discovers he loves, once he understands the impact it has on the restaurant’s guests.

The importance of details is something the episode itself knows instinctually, baking in plenty of “show, don’t tell” moments to make its point. Take Richie’s alarm clock — the alarm going off incrementally earlier and earlier, until finally he’s too excited to greet the day, awake and alert before the numbers click over to 5:30 a.m. There’s an electricity to that moment, because it’s electric to see a person care about something as much as Richie comes to care about this work he’s doing. It’s a shift epitomized by his idea to fulfill a diner’s idle wish to try deep-dish pizza before leaving Chicago, resulting in an extraordinary plate of food that blows his patrons’ minds. (The book Richie is seen reading a few minutes later, Unreasonable Hospitality by Will Guidara, contains a very similar anecdote involving a New York “dirty water hot dog.”)

The Bear (FX)